4/5/2023 0 Comments How to use eclipse in gimp![]() Stacking 11 individual frames results in an improvement over a single RAW image (image below). I haven’t explored all that the plugins have to offer, that will hopefully be in another blog. You can do that and then work with the Levels and Curves to bring it back down, or if like me, working with GIMP, then use the Py-Astro plug-ins to do the merging and intensity scaling in a single step with a Merge all layers. If you simply add all those layers up, you will get one very bright image because you are adding pixel intensities. Always aligning with the “base” image to ensure no drift. ![]() layers until you’ve added all your images. ![]() Repeat the steps for a 3rd, 4th, 5th, etc. Once that is done I change the layer mode to Addition, and then hide this 2nd layer. I change that 2nd layer to be overlaid as a “Difference” and manually align this 2nd layer to match the base layer. This is essentially opening one “base” image and then adding a 2nd image as a new layer. I turned to standard photo-editing software for a manual alignment and stacking. RAW image : Canon 80D 300mm f/5.6 5 seconds exposure at ISO3200 (0) ![]() So when you capture long wispy comets like the RAW image below, software like DSS or Registax just can’t cope. Should I also add that in older times, comets were often seen as a bad omen, the bearer of bad news? Cough, cough COVID-19 cough…Īnyways, back to astronomy… There are essentially two types of photo registration (alignment) software out there: 1) Deep Sky which uses pin-point stars to perform alignment 2) Lunar/Planetary uses the large “disk” of a planet or Moon to align based on surface details. But comet images are notoriously difficult to work with. Looking back, the “ Great comet of 2020″ C/2020 F3 NEOWISE was a fantastic sight and well worth the 3am alarm to snap some photos back in July. ![]()
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